Pleasanton’s Lokanta is both simple and satisfying

The whole branzino ($24) at Lokanta, a new Turkish restaurant in Pleasanton, captivated me from the very start. A celebration of Mediterranean flavors, the branzino arrived filleted, crisped and propped on an herbed medley of summer vegetables. But it was the coulis, a light, vibrant puree of ripe tomatoes spiked with ouzo, that set the fish apart. Like Lokanta’s infusion of clove into poached Turkish apricots (the fruit, stuffed with mascarpone and rolled in pistachios for dessert, is $7) the [...]